Essential Oil Properties  |  Essential Oil Safety  |  Extracting Essential Oils  |  Buying Essential Oils |  Blending Essential Oils

The art of aromatherapy uses pure essential oils which are extracted from various parts of plants, grasses, bark, trees, and fruits.  These natural, aromatic, liquid substances often considered to be the 'life force' or 'soul' of plants, are endowed with a while host of therapeutic properties.  They are remarkably versatile and may be used in various ways.

Essential oils have been used for centuries by all different cultures as a form of natural healing and wellness.  The benefits of using pure essential oils in your daily life are endless. Click on the individual oil links below to learn the properties of each oil and their use.

Essential Oil Safety

Essential oils are extremely powerful substances that if not used correctly can cause serious problems.  Below is a list of the most common situations when oils should not be used.  If you have any doubt about in using essential oil, please consult a doctor or qualified aroma therapist.

Essential oils are perfectly safe when these guidelines are followed:

A Little Bit About Aromatherapy

Extracting Essential Oils   |   Buying Essential Oils   |  Blending Essential Oils

Aromatherapy is a holistic therapy which can be used to promote physical, mental and spiritual health equilibrium.  It forms part of a holistic healing regime which involves searching for the root causes of an illness rather than its symptoms and awakening the body's innate ability to heal itself, leading to a state of balance.  Aromatherapy involves far more than the application of essential oils.  To achieve 'whole healing', factors such as diet and lifestyle must always be considered.

The art of aromatherapy uses pure essential oils which are extracted from various parts of plants and trees.  These natural, aromatic, liquid substances, often considered to be the 'life force' or 'soul' of plants, are endowed with a whole host of therapeutic properties.  They are remarkably versatile and may be used in various ways.

Methods of Extracting Essential Oils

There are several methods of obtaining aromatic substances from plant material, most of which I have described below.  But strictly speaking, essential oils are only those obtained by distillation or expression.

Steam Distillation

Steam distillation is the most widely used and the most economical method of extracting oils.  Many historians attribute the discovery of distillation to Avicenna, the Persian physician and scholar although possibly the Egyptians were aware of the primitive process.  There is a great deal of skill involved in the process of distillation if the precious essential oil is not to be lost or changed in its composition.  Some plants are distilled immediately after harvesting, whereas others may be left for a few days or even dried prior to extraction.

In distillation, the plant material is heated, either by placing it in boiling water or by passing steam through it.  The heat and steam cause the cell structure of the plant material to burst and break down, thus freeing the essential oils.  The essential oil molecules and steam are carried along a pipe and channeled through a cooling tank, where they return to liquid form and are collected in a vat.  The emerging liquid is a mixture of oil and water, and since essential oils are not water soluble they can be easily separated from the water and siphoned off.  Essential oils which are lighter then water will float on the surface, whereas heavier oils such as clove will sink.

The water traveling around the distillation plant becomes impregnated with aroma and is recycled, and may be used in perfumed water such as lavender water or rose water.

During the process of distillation only the extremely small volatile molecules are able to evaporate.  Essential oils which contain a high proportion of the smallest (most volatile) of these molecules are referred to as 'top notes.'  Those which are composed mostly of the heaviest (least volatile) molecules are known as 'base notes.'  Essential oils which are in between are called 'middle notes.'
 

• Top Note Oils are the most volatile - the aroma disappears within twenty-four hours.  Examples are basil, grapefruit, lemon, lime and eucalyptus.  They tend to be stimulating and uplifting.

• Middle Note Oils have an aroma which lasts for 2-3 days.  Examples are chamomile, geranium and lavender.  They are generally balancing and primarily affect the general metabolism and the systems of the body such as digestion and menstruation.

• Base Note Oils are the least volatile - the aroma will last at least one week.  Examples are frankincense, myrrh, neroli, patchouli and vetivert.  They have a relaxing and sedative quality.

The first distillation is usually the best quality.  If essential oils are redistilled this process is known as 'rectification.'  The second and subsequent distillations will produce cheaper oil unsuitable for aromatherapy.

Expression

This method is reserved exclusively for members of the citrus family such as bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, lime, mandarin and orange.  The essence yielded is found in small sacs which are located under the surface of the rind.  This process was originally carried out using simple hand pressure.  The citrus essence was squeezed from the rinds and then collected in a sponge which, once saturated, was squeezed into a bucket.  Why not try hand pressing the rind of a citrus fruit yourself?  You can have your own hand expression plant in your kitchen!

Due to the labor costs involved the majority of citrus oil is now expressed using mechanical presses.  A great deal of essential oil of orange is produced in the United States in fruit-juice factories.  However, this is not the best oil to use as the crops are treated with pesticides and chemical fertilizers which contaminate the essence.  Citrus oils for therapeutic aromatherapy use are best obtained from organically or naturally grown fruit.

Unfortunately some citrus oil factories distil the peel after expression in order to release more oil.  Obviously this essential oil is of an inferior quality but it is often added to the expressed essential oil to increase the quantity and thus make more profit.

Solvent Extraction

The process of solvent extraction does not yield essential oils.  This method is employed for flowers, gums and resins and it produces 'absolutes' and 'resinoids.'  The technique is used for higher yield or to extract oils that cannot be obtained by any other process.  Jasmine, for example is adversely affected by hot water and steam.

To yield an absolute the aromatic plant material (flowers, leaves, etc.) is extracted by hydrocarbon solvents such as benzene or hexane.  The plant material is covered with the solvent and slowly heated to dissolve the aromatic molecules.  The solvent extracts the odour and then the solvent is filtered off to produce a 'concrete.'  A concrete is a solid wax-like substance containing about 50% wax and 50% volatile oil such as Jasmine.

To obtain the absolute the concrete is mixed with pure alcohol to dissolve out the aromatic molecules, and then chilled.  This mixture is filtered to eliminate waste products and to separate out insoluble waxes.  The alcohol is evaporated off gently under vacuum.  The thick, colored liquid known as the absolute is left behind.

This method is widely used for Rose, Jasmine and Neroli.  A trace of the solvent, however, will always remain.  Therefore an absolute can never be as pure as an essential oil which has been extracted via the process of distillation.  Absolutes are sometimes adulterated due to their high price.  Take care to always buy from a reputable supplier.

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Buying Essential Oils

It is vital to use only high-quality pure essential oils for optimum results.  It is most unfortunate that many essential oils available on the market today are of poor quality and, therefore, cannot help alleviate health problems.  Essential oil traders supply mostly to the perfume and food industries who more concerned with the fragrance or flavor of an oil rather then its therapeutic effects.  These industries must always have essential oils with the same chemical formula if they are to produce the same aroma and taste consistently, so they find it necessary to 'adulterate' oils to replicate aromas and flavors.

Essential oils used in aromatherapy must, of course, be as pure, natural and 'whole' as possible if they are to have the desired therapeutic effects.  Synthetic materials which simulate the aroma and appearance of an essential oil cannot have the same therapeutic properties as an essential oil and should not be used in therapy.  Synthetic chemicals also carry the risk the harmful and unpleasant side effects, as do synthetic drugs.  It is totally impossible to duplicate an essential oil in its entirety in the laboratory.  Vital constituents and trace elements will inevitably be missing.  It is the total of the components of an essential oil working together which produces a healing effect.  If oils are referred to as 'nature identical' this implies that the oil is synthetic and produced in the laboratory and is, therefore, unsuitable for aromatherapy.  Synthetic oils also do not possess the 'vital force' or 'life force' of essential oils which comes from the living plants.  Chemicals also do not contain the 'vibration' of natural living plants.

Since most aromatherapy suppliers buy essential oils from importers who supply the perfume and food industries it is important to seek a supplier who deals mainly with essential oils intended only for the therapeutic use.  We carry only 100% pure essential oils.

Caring & Storage of Essential Oils

Essential oils are extremely precious and should be treated with respect - they can also be very expensive.  They are damaged by ultra-violet light and deteriorate more rapidly at the blue end at the spectrum then the red.  Therefore, essential oils should be stored in amber glass bottles.  If you do store your oils in blue bottles they need to be kept in the dark.  This is less important with brown bottles.  Never decant the oils into clear glass or plastic bottles.  They should never be placed in direct sunlight, so avoid sunny windowsills or shelves on radiators no matter how attractive the bottles look.  Essential oils do not like extremes of temperatures.  They are highly volatile which means that they evaporate rapidly.  Always replace the caps immediately and ensure that the tops are tightly closed when the oils are not in use.

Pure essential oils will last for approximately three years from the bottling date.  In excellent storage conditions (amber bottles in a cool place) they will keep for about five years.  Citrus oils tend to have a shorter shelf-life due to their high proportion of terpenes, as do absolutes and resins which thicken even more with age and the smell of solvent becomes more noticeable.

Once essential oils have been diluted in a carrier oil, the shelf-life reduces dramatically.  For maximum benefit use freshly made-up blends.  A blend will keep for about 3-6 months if it is stored in an amber glass bottle in a cool place away from sunlight.  If wheat germ oil is added then the shelf-life is approximately 6-9 months.  If the smell alters and the vegetable oil becomes rancid then you should definitely discard it.

Do's & Don'ts of Buying & Storage

• Always buy oils in amber glass bottles.  Clear glass or plastic bottles do not contain pure essential oils. 

• Do not store your oils in direct sunlight

• Are the essential oils all the same price?  If they are, then you are definitely not purchasing pure essential oils.  For instance, pure essential oil of rose will be far more expensive then lavender or rosemary.

• If purchasing oils that are diluted, always verify the date they were blended.

• Essential oils should always be kept away from young children.  If they are taken internally some essential oils can be highly dangerous.

• Never leave bottled pure essential oils standing on plastic, polished or painted surfaces which can be damaged by the chemical constituents.

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Blending Essential Oils

Blending essential oils is one of my absolute favorite things to do.  As you experiment with essential oils you will find that some oils blend great together and others don't.  I recommend keeping an 'Aromatherapy Journal' where you keep notes on all of your blends including, recipe, purpose, effects, and precautions.  Whether the blend is good or bad, WRITE IT DOWN! This way you may look back on your experiences and learn from them.  It is really FUN!

ALWAYS USE CLEAN BLENDING TOOLS!

Rubbing alcohol is best to use when cleaning pipettes, blending bottles, etc.. You don't want to contaminate your oils with other oils.  Even though it may look like there isn't any oil left in the pipette there probably still is if you didn't use rubbing alcohol to clean them.  Rubbing alcohol strips the oils clean and evaporates in minutes.  Double check your pipettes to make sure the alcohol has evaporated before using them again.  I have found it necessary to lightly tap my pipettes on the edge of the sink to get all of the alcohol out.  After that, they are able to be used again within a couple minutes.

You should never reuse your essential oil bottles.  It is my experience that they never seem to be free of the original oil stored in that bottle.  If you were to reuse that bottle for another oil, it would become contaminated and go rancid.  Even though the bottles are expensive, it is best to just send them off to your local recycler.

Diluting Essential Oils

A safe and effective dilution for most aromatherapy applications is 2% (2 drops of essential oil per 100 drops of carrier oil). There is no need to go beyond a 3% dilution for any purpose. Using more of an oil will not get you better results; in fact, it may cause adverse effects. Some oils, such as lavender, are sedating in low dilutions and stimulating in high dilutions. A 1% dilution should be used on children, pregnant women, the elderly and those with health concerns.

When making blends for the first time, start with no more than two or three oils at a time. The more complicated blends require a bit more knowledge because the oils have synergistic effects (meaning that the combination of oils have properties greater than the um of the individual oils).

1% dilution: 5-6 drops essential oil per ounce of carrier oil 2% dilution: 7-14 drops essential oil per ounce of carrier oil 3% dilution: 15-18 drops essential oil per ounce of carrier oil

The size of a drop however varies depending on the viscosity of the oil, the temperature and the opening of the dropper of course. Use an ordinary dropper that you purchase from a pharmacy. When making large portions, use teaspoon measurements. Use the chart below from Keville and Green's Aromatherapy: A Complete Guide to the Healing Art as a guideline.

Conversions & Measurements
Approximate equivalents
1 oz = 2 tablespoons or 6 teaspoons or 30 ml/cc or
28.35 grams or approx. 700 drops
1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon or 3 teaspoons or 15ml/cc 14.18 grams or approx. 350 drops
1 teaspoon is about 5 ml/cc
1 gallon of most oils is approximately 7.775 lbs

U.S. to Metric
1/5 teaspoon = 1 milliliter
1 teaspoon = 5 ml
1 tablespoon = 15 ml
1/5 cup = 50 ml
1 cup = 240 ml
2 cups (1 pint) = 470 ml
4 cups (1 quart) = .95 liter
4 quarts (1 gal.) = 3.8 liters

Metric to U.S.
1 ml = 1/5 teaspoon
5 ml = 1 teaspoon
15 ml = 1 tablespoon
34 ml = 1 fluid oz.
100 ml = 3.4 fluid oz.
240 ml = 1 cup
1 liter = 34 fluid oz.
1 liter = 4.2 cups
1 liter = 2.1 pints
1 liter = 1.06 quarts
1 liter = .26 gallon

Weight
1 gram = .035 ounce
100 grams = 3.5 ounces
500 grams = 1.10 pounds
1 kilogram = 2.205 pounds
1 kilogram = 35 oz.

Cooking Measurement Equivalents
1 cup = 16 tablespoons or 48 teaspoons
3/4 cup = 12 tablespoons
2/3 cup = 10 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
1/2 cup = 8 tablespoons
3/8 cup = 6 tablespoons
1/3 cup = 5 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon
1/4 cup = 4 tablespoons
1/8 cup = 2 tablespoons
1/6 cup = 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
1/16 cup = 1 tablespoon
1 pint =2 cups
1 quart = 2 pints
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons

Working out a Percentage

Generally speaking, most ingredient amounts are calculated or expressed as a percentage of a batch by weight. To work out a percentage, take the size of your batch (in pounds, weight ounces or grams) and multiply by the percentage required. For example if you are making a 5 lb. batch of cream and need to add 2% of an essential oil, you should first convert 5 lbs. to 80 oz. ( 5lbs. x 16 oz. = 80 oz.) and then multiply 80 oz. by .02 (2%) which gives you 1.6 oz. If the resulting number is very small, you can convert it to grams for easier, more accurate weighing. 1 oz. = 28.35 grams so 1.6 oz. x 28.35 grams = 45.36 grams.  You can then use a gram scale for measuring out 45.36 grams accurately.

Occasionally, people add an ingredient as a percentage of a batch by volume instead of weight. In this case, take the volume of your batch and multiply by the percentage to get the volume of the ingredient to use.  For example, if you are making a 64 oz. batch of lotion and you want to use 1% by volume of essential oil, you would multiply 64 oz. by .01 (1 %). This gives you .64 oz.  If the resulting number is very small or difficult to measure and you are working in volumetric ounces, you can multiply the number of ounces by 30 to get the total number of milliliters (or cc). 64 oz. x .01 (1%) x 30 = 19.2 ml or 19.2 cc.

Carrier Oils

Carrier oils are used to dilute the essential oil in massage, friction rubs and pulse-point application.  These carrier oils limit evaporation of the essential oil and speed the absorption into the skin.  Oils can oxidize very easily.  I recommend that you add 10% wheatgerm oil to your massage blend.  Wheatgerm oil is rich in vitamins E and B, and in lecithin, and helps protect against oxidation.  Oils that you buy in a supermarket are for cooking and might have been processed with a chemical agent or heat-treated.  Carrier oils should be cold pressed and organic.

Following are the most popular vegetable carrier oils.  These can be used 100% as your carrier, fixed or base oil.

Apricot Kernel Oil:  Pale Yellow, rich in Vitamins E and A.  Easily absorbed by the skin, nourishing and moisturizing, it is suitable for facial treatments.  Especially suitable for sensitive and inflamed dry skin.

Sweet Almond Oil:  A fine, very pale yellow oil.  Slow to become rancid.  Rapidly absorbed; excellent for oily, sensitive skins.  Recommended for body massage even in newborn babies.  A useful source of Vitamin D.

Grape Seed Oil:  Very fine and clear, giving a satin-smooth finish without a greasy touch.  Most often used as bath oil; needs to be dispersed well throughout the water.

Sunflower Oil:  Pale yellow.  Contains proteins, minerals and vitamin F (an essential fatty acid).  It has an excellent shelf life.

Avocado Oil:  Rich, nourishing and compatible with the skin's own sebum.  High in Vitamins A, C and E, it aids regeneration of scarred skin.  Recommended for facial and body treatments although thick, it leaves the skin feeling smooth and silky.  Useful in treating dry and mature skin as well as nappy rash and eczema.

Sesame Oil:  Dark-yellow carrier oil, rich in Vitamin A, E, minerals, protein and lecithin.  Keeps well.  Excellent for treating eczema and psoriasis.  A powerful anti-oxidant.  It is used extensively in Ayurvedic treatments.

Evening Primrose Oil:  Excellent, pale yellow carrier oil, rich in fatty acids particularly gamma linolenic acid (GLA).  This acid affects much enzyme activity in the body.  Effective in the treatment of eczema, rheumatoid arthritis, psoriasis, premenstrual syndrome and weight reduction when used as a massage oil.

Jojoba:  The most luxurious of all carrier oils.  It is in fact a wax pressed from the bean of the plant.  It does not go rancid.  Light and rich in vitamin E.  Gives a satin-smooth finish and feel to the skin.  Offers an ideal base for perfume and luxurious face-moisturizing oil.  Useful in treating acne, eczema, psoriasis and inflamed skin.

Wheat Germ Oil:  Rich, nourishing, fine healing oil, yellow-orange in color.  It contains proteins, minerals and Vitamin E and is perfect for anti-stretch mark blends

I personally recommend Sweet Almond Oil for massage oil blends as it applies silky smooth and doesn't leave your skin feeling sticky or greasy.  For more information about carrier oils please see our individual item descriptions.

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I hope this is enough information to get you started on your journey to natural healing with pure essential oils.  Aromatherapy and essential oils are a part of our daily life in my household.  When I first introduced my family to essential oils and aromatherapy they honestly thought I was crazy!  Now that they have  tried essential oils, they ask me for blends all the time.  My husband likes me to burn a bedtime blend every night before we turn in for the evening as he is one to toss and turn a lot.  In an effort to get some sleep myself, I accommodate him graciously. ha ha

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